Skip to content
Nanaimo Custom Bathrooms

Bathroom renovation services

Bathroom Vanities & Cabinetry

Vanities made to the wall you actually have, so a run uses its full width instead of losing it to the filler strips a stock cabinet needs.

A floating oak vanity with two drawers and an undermount basin beneath a backlit mirror

Vanities are made to the wall you have, so a run uses its full width instead of losing it to the filler strips a stock cabinet needs.

  • Licensed & insured
  • WorkSafeBC coverage
  • Written quotes & contracts
  • Built to BC Building Code

What this covers

Bathroom Vanities & Cabinetry

Stock vanities are made in 600, 750, 900, 1,200 and 1,500mm widths. Bathroom walls are not. The gap between the two is where a bathroom quietly loses its storage: a 1,340mm wall takes a 1,200mm cabinet and 140mm of filler and scribe, which is a full drawer's worth of space converted into a strip of painted board. In a small room that trade happens twice — once at the vanity and once at the linen cupboard — and the result is a bathroom that feels short of storage in a space that had enough.

Made to the wall. A cabinet built to the measured opening uses the whole run. It also lets the internal layout be decided rather than inherited: drawer widths set to what actually goes in them, a bank of narrow drawers at one end for small items, a full-depth drawer at the base for the things that currently live on the floor. Where the wall is out of plumb — normal in older Nanaimo homes and practically universal in anything with lath and plaster behind the drywall — the cabinet is scribed to it rather than sitting on a visible taper.

The trap is the real design constraint. Every vanity has a P-trap and a pair of supply stops sitting exactly where the storage wants to be. A cabinet with a door and a shelf simply gives that space up. Drawers can be built around it: the top drawer notched at the back to clear the trap, the lower drawer full depth below it, or a U-shaped drawer box that wraps the waste. It costs more to build and it recovers most of the volume that a door-and-shelf cabinet wastes. Where a wall-hung basin or a vessel is used, the trap position also has to be resolved visually, which usually means moving the waste to suit rather than accepting where it currently sits.

Floating vanities. A wall-hung vanity makes a small bathroom read larger, makes the floor easier to clean, and allows the floor tile to run through underneath — which matters if the room may later need to be wheelchair accessible. It also puts the entire load on the wall, so it needs solid blocking between the studs at the right height, set during framing. The waste has to be brought through the wall rather than up through the floor, and the trap has to sit inside the cabinet or above it, which sets a minimum cabinet depth. None of this is difficult, but all of it has to be decided before the walls close.

Single versus double. A double vanity needs more wall than most people expect. Two basins in 1,200mm produces two cramped positions and no usable counter between them. Around 1,500mm is the practical floor, and 1,800mm is where a double stops being a compromise. Where the wall will not take it, a single basin with a long counter, a full-height mirror and a second set of drawers usually serves a two-person household better than two crowded sinks.

Storage that is designed into the room. The most useful bathroom storage is usually recessed. The cavity between two studs is 90mm deep and roughly 355mm wide, which is exactly the depth of a bottle, a stack of face cloths or a medicine cabinet. A recessed cabinet above the toilet, a niche beside the vanity, a full-height recessed linen unit built into a non-structural partition, or a shallow shampoo recess inside the shower all add storage without consuming any floor area. All of them require the location to be known during framing, and any recess in a wet wall has to be waterproofed as part of the wall assembly.

Materials that suit a bathroom on the coast. Cabinet boxes in a bathroom live in humidity that would be unusual anywhere else in the house. Moisture-resistant substrates, sealed edges — particularly the bottom edge and the back of the toe kick where any leak arrives first — properly finished cut edges, and hardware rated for damp conditions all matter more here than the door style does. Solid timber doors move with humidity and need a finish on all six faces, including the hidden ones, or they cup. Soft-close runners are standard now, but the runner rating and the drawer box construction are what determine whether a drawer full of bottles still runs smoothly in ten years.

Fitting is where it either looks custom or looks close. Reveals consistent around every door and drawer, a countertop templated to the installed cabinet rather than to the drawing, and toe kicks scribed to a floor that is rarely level. These details are the difference between cabinetry that reads as part of the room and cabinetry that reads as furniture pushed against a wall.

Why it matters

What you get

Full wall width used

A cabinet built to the measured opening recovers the 100–200mm that a stock unit gives up to filler and scribe — usually a whole drawer's worth of storage.

Drawers built around the trap

Notched and U-shaped drawer boxes wrap the waste and supply stops, recovering most of the volume a door-and-shelf cabinet simply abandons.

Scribed to walls that are not plumb

Older homes rarely offer a straight wall. Cabinets are scribed to what is there rather than sitting on a visible taper at the end of a run.

Blocking set for wall-hung units

Floating vanities are supported on solid blocking installed during framing, with the waste brought through the wall and the trap resolved inside the cabinet.

Recessed storage that costs no floor area

Stud cavities are used for medicine cabinets, linen recesses and in-shower niches, located during framing and waterproofed where they sit in a wet wall.

Built for bathroom humidity

Moisture-resistant substrates, sealed bottom edges and toe kicks, finished cut edges and hardware suited to a damp room.

How it runs

The process

  1. 01

    Measure the wall, not the plan

    The opening is measured at several heights and checked for plumb and square, and the existing waste and supply positions are recorded.

  2. 02

    Work out the internal layout

    Drawer heights and widths are set to what actually gets stored, and the drawer boxes are shaped to wrap the trap and supply stops rather than stopping short of them.

  3. 03

    Specify materials and hardware

    Carcass substrate, door and drawer front material, finish, edge treatment and runner rating are chosen for a room that stays humid.

  4. 04

    Coordinate the rough-in

    Blocking heights for wall-hung units, waste position for a through-wall trap, and any power required inside a mirror cabinet are set before the walls close.

  5. 05

    Build and install

    The cabinetry is made to the recorded dimensions, then levelled, scribed and fixed, with reveals set consistently across every door and drawer.

  6. 06

    Template the countertop to the installed cabinet

    Once the cabinetry is fixed and level, the top is templated to it, so the overhangs and sink cutout land where they were intended.

Get the storage the room is currently wasting

The wall is measured and the internal layout planned around the plumbing before anything is built.

Questions

Frequently asked

It depends on the wall. If your opening happens to match a stock width and the room is square, a good stock unit is a reasonable choice. If the wall is an odd dimension — which describes most bathrooms in older island housing — a made-to-measure cabinet recovers space a stock unit gives away, and it lets the drawers be built around the plumbing instead of around a shelf. The other common reason is depth: standard vanities are 550mm deep, and a narrow bathroom sometimes needs 400mm to keep the walkway usable.

It needs solid blocking between the studs at the mounting height, which means the wall has to be open or opened. In a renovation where the walls are coming off anyway this is straightforward. Retrofitting to a closed wall means cutting the drywall, adding blocking and patching. The waste also has to come through the wall rather than up through the floor, so the drain is usually relocated. On a concrete or steel-stud condo wall the fixing method changes and the load capacity has to be confirmed.

More than most small bathrooms currently have, because most of the loss is in the vanity and in unused wall. Drawers instead of a cabinet under the sink typically doubles the usable volume. A recessed cabinet above the toilet adds a stud cavity's worth. A tall unit at the end of a vanity run, or a full-height recess in a non-structural partition, absorbs linens. Together those changes usually remove the need for a separate cupboard entirely.

Standard is around 800mm to the top of the counter, but a vanity built to measure does not have to be. Taller households are usually more comfortable at 900mm, which is the height a kitchen counter sits at. A vessel basin adds its own height, so the cabinet has to be built lower to compensate — often around 750mm — or the tap ends up at chest height. Where the room needs to be accessible, a wall-hung vanity with clear knee space and a shallower basin is the better arrangement.

It depends entirely on construction rather than on appearance. The vulnerable points are the bottom of the carcass, the back of the toe kick and any unsealed cut edge, because that is where water arrives first and lingers. Moisture-resistant substrate, edges sealed on all faces including the hidden ones, and hardware rated for damp environments handle it. Solid timber doors need finishing on all six faces or they cup as humidity cycles, which on this coast happens every day.